Humayun's tomb (above)
The Red FortI wanted to love Delhi. I really did. I have friends who I love who are from Delhi ergo I thought I would love Delhi. Unfortunately, I didn't.
I did enjoy spending time in Delhi with F and with some other friends who happened to be there. But the city itself I found disappointing. Perhaps part of the disappointment was due to the fact I'd done my research before heading to Delhi. I'd read William Dalrymple's book, City of Djinns. I'd learned about the incredible history of the city. I was excited about seeing what remained of this history and walking through Old Delhi and the Red Fort. When I got to Delhi, however, I found that the history was hard to see and appreciate through the throngs of people, smog and dirt. Chandi Chowk, once one of the grandest markets in Delhi, is now full of beggars, rickshaw drivers and shops selling a baffling assortment of screws, cogs and odd bits and bobs. By the time we had managed to navigate the stretch of this, to the Red Fort at the other end, by the time we had stepped over the pools of urine and dogs, I was exhausted. I collapsed on the lawn at the Red Fort and found myself admiring it from this stationary position, simply too exhausted to explore the history surrounding me.
I found it exhausting dealing with the taxi drivers who would try and force us to go to their friends' shops, or at the end of a journey try and insist on a greater fee than previously agreed. Aspects of Delhi were also very confronting. G and I found ourselves frequently approached by beggars, many of whom were children, wearing very little even in the winter cold. The most upsetting incident was one night when we were traveling back to our guesthouse by a tuk tuk. It was a freezing night; both of us were wrapped up in jackets and scarves and still finding the night cold. As we sat at the lights, a small girl of about 8 years old approached us, begging. The only clothing she wore was a frayed, dirty pair of shorts.
While I didn't enjoy navigating the city, I did enjoy the seeing its sights. So perhaps if I went to Delhi again, knowing what to expect and so better prepared for it, I would have a better time. I did, for example, really enjoy exploring Humayun's tomb, built in the mid-16th century. The site contains not only the second Mughal emperor Humayun's tomb, but in addition contains other tombs, including that of Humayun's favourite barber. It is comforting to know that even in the 16th century a good haircut was highly valued.
I found it exhausting dealing with the taxi drivers who would try and force us to go to their friends' shops, or at the end of a journey try and insist on a greater fee than previously agreed. Aspects of Delhi were also very confronting. G and I found ourselves frequently approached by beggars, many of whom were children, wearing very little even in the winter cold. The most upsetting incident was one night when we were traveling back to our guesthouse by a tuk tuk. It was a freezing night; both of us were wrapped up in jackets and scarves and still finding the night cold. As we sat at the lights, a small girl of about 8 years old approached us, begging. The only clothing she wore was a frayed, dirty pair of shorts.
While I didn't enjoy navigating the city, I did enjoy the seeing its sights. So perhaps if I went to Delhi again, knowing what to expect and so better prepared for it, I would have a better time. I did, for example, really enjoy exploring Humayun's tomb, built in the mid-16th century. The site contains not only the second Mughal emperor Humayun's tomb, but in addition contains other tombs, including that of Humayun's favourite barber. It is comforting to know that even in the 16th century a good haircut was highly valued.
At the end of our three days in Delhi, I was very sad to say goodbye to F and the other friends we were leaving there. I confess, however, that I wasn't too disappointed to be leaving the city.
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